Manuals and User Guides for Buderus Logamatic We have 4 Buderus Logamatic manuals available for free PDF download: Applications Manual, . Buderus. HYDRONIC SYSTEMS. Operating Instructions. Logamatic R The Logamatic R controls the entire system based on your specific heating. Logamatic Controls – Buderus Logamatic Control The Logamatic has the ability to control a boiler (V or dry contact), a pump or multi-.

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Buderus Logamatic vs Taco PC I have had three companies out to evaluate my house and provide me with recommendations and an estimate.

Two estimates suggest matching the Buderus with a Riello burner, and the other recommended a Beckett NX burner.

Two of my estimates recommended going with the Logamatic. And the third said that for my house the Taco PC would work better. The estimator who recommended the Taco seemed to be VERY familiar with both units and said that he has installed lots of both.

The reason he recommended the Taco for me seems to be primarily because my house has multiple zones. He said that the Taco was better at heating 4 zones and that each zone would have its own command. Does that make sense? Or is it crazy-talk? Would seem to me that it makes sense to pair the Buderus Logamatic with the Buderus boiler And that’s where I’m getting confused. Also, if going with the Logamatic, would I want both indoor and outdoor sensors?

I just trying to learn and educate myself so that I can make a smart and informed decision on my new heating system. This is all a bit confusing for me and I very much appreciate any feedback you have to help me select an optimal heating system for my house. Find all posts by FleetwoodH. Go with the Logomatic and both outdoor and optional indoor sensor. The PC is not nearly the control that the Logomatic is, and doesn’t have any better control over heating multiple zones it’s actually worse.

The Logomatic also does some very nice control for the indirect water heater, which the PC does not even with the PC-xxx add-on cards. With any of these approaches, you will need to replace the existing thermostat in the Beacon-Morris kicker with a low-temp thermostat because the average water temperature will go way down. It’s a stock item from Beacon-Morris.

Find all posts by xiphias.

Originally Posted by xiphias. Find all posts by Mike Speed Best set-up with multiple zones. Thank you both for the replies! I called B-M this morning and they are sending me the low-temp thermostat. I also called Buderus and spoke to one of their technical support guys.

He confirmed that the Logamatic can be used with multiple zones, but he recommended to NOT use an indoor Logamatic sensor and to just use the programmable thermostats in each zone like i am using today.

Xiphias, this seems contrary to your recommendation to use an indoor sensor. But what’s the downside? If your system is properly designed and wired, what ANY ONE of the thermostats calls for heat, it will open it’s associated zone valve and call the boiler for heat. Because the indoor sensor will basically ‘regulate’ the water temperature in the system, it will attempt to keep the area that it is located in at a constant temperature. There ARE ways to ‘bridge’ multiple sensors though, and this arrangement would tend to give a better ‘average’ temp for the control to work off of.


I think Xiphias spent some time determining the optimum location for his sensor Find all posts by NJT. Slightly off-topic, but I’m wondering how these systems compare to the Tekmar controllers, especially the tN2 House Control I’m considering that controller for a conventional heater with multiple baseboard zones.

Buderus Logamatic Manuals

Find all posts by jgalak. Originally Posted by jgalak.

It’s too darn hot to think It’s been ages since I looked in detail at the Logomatic manuals. I’m far more ligamatic with how the tekmar controls work than the Buderus.

Buderus Logamatic 2107 Manuals

My philosophy is that the heat input supplied by the boiler and heating elements should be based on the actual heat loss as measured by some kind of indoor sensor s. Outdoor reset doesn’t do that. Outdoor reset is just an approximation based on one variable. It’s certainly a step in the logakatic direction, but why not take the next step and base the heat input on the actual loss from the building?

That’s what indoor sensors do. They account for losses due to drafts, poor insulation, etc. Lots of big buildings do this, and have buderjs years. So the downside is that just using the outdoor sensor is limiting the control in what it can do to make the whole system perform at peak efficiency. My own tekmar system is a case in point. I ran it for one heating season on just the outdoor sensor, with a pretty-well calculated reset curve or so I thought.

Then I added an indoor sensor and tuned both zones so that they circulate basically constantly except when gains make them turn off. The indoor sensor provides direct feedback to the control and allows it to lower the water temperature, increase the spacing between firing cycles, and generally optimize the whole system for efficiency and comfort.

There was a marked reduction in fuel use. And the whole house is a very logamatix, constant temperature. Anyway, I looked at this: That’s what I’d do. Put the BFU in the coolest zone then adjust dampers on the other zones until the whole place runs on nearly constant circulation. The coolest zone will require the warmest water.

Closing dampers in the other zones will reduce output.

You can also set the thermostats to turn off the zones if they get too warm from those gains mentioned above. And if you don’t like it, just disconnect it. But I’d venture that it can be tuned to work budefus well, and provide outstanding efficiency and comfort. Thank you for taking the time to reply to this thread.

I appreciate the insight and guidance very much! One installer used that term when describing using the Logamatic indoor logamaticc sensor with multiple zones. Sounds like you both disagree with that opinion and believe that the Indoor Sensor should absolutely be used with the Logamatic, even in a logamagic house.

Is that definitely the best way to configure the system if using the indoor sensor? With constant circulation, do I basically need to choose 1 zone that will be set to the warmest temperature in the house at all times?


How does one determine the ideal placement of the room sensor? Does it necessarily need to go next to one of the existing thermostats? I now realize this is a very important step since the room sensor will basically regulate the water logamqtic of my entire house.

With the logamatic, do I still program the thermostats to drop at night? Or will the Logamatic setback basically do that for me now? During the weekends, we keep all zones pretty much consistent to each other at 65 degrees during the day, with the bedroom zone dropping just a tad to lohamatic at night and the rest of the house down to 60 at night.

The thermostats are programmed to heat up to 65 late afternoon and stay that way til 10pm before dropping temp back to 60 for the evening except the bedroom which is programmed for 63 at night.

Also, two days a week I keep the basement zone warmer during the day as my wife works from home and spends the day in the basement. On these days, the basement during the day is the warmest part of the house. One of the zones is a sunroom with tons of windows. Not surprisingly, this zone gets crazy hot in the summer and cooler in the winter than other parts of the house. Hope i didn’t type too much info But I’m really enjoying learning about heating systems and am pretty excited to be installing a new one, now i just want to make sure its done in the most efficient and comfortable way for my house.

Thank you all again! Sounds like you both disagree with that opinion. A boiler sized with DOE output tight to the heat loss and zoning set up so that there is as much constant load as possible is a very efficient setup. As rbeck commonly points out, zoning can often lead to short-cycling of the boiler because with only one or two zones calling the boiler is way oversized for just the load of that small demand. Computing the ratio of heat loss to heat emitter as Trooper suggests is a useful exercise.

That, along with your experience in the house, can help inform where to put the indoor sensor. Constant circulation basically gets every last usable BTU out of your system.

My suggestion to place the sensor in the coolest zone but not your sunroom, obviouslywill provide the warmest water temperature to the whole system. Then you can use the zone thermostats as ‘high limits’ that stop circulation if necessary or desired. You will also be able to close the dampers on the baseboard to reduce their output, so can get the whole house dialed in pretty close to constant. It takes a while to get over nighttime setback.

Then went from 5F to 2F. Then just quit entirely and have come to love it. Slow and steady wins the race. Recovery from setback actually takes a lot of juice with a hydronic system.